by Jo Huffhines/Luxury Travel Advisor
Rome’s Hidden Glow: Why Trastevere is a Craft Beer and Rice Ball Paradise
When the Roman sun dips below the horizon, casting a warm glow over the Tiber, one neighborhood truly comes alive: Trastevere. With its cobblestone streets, ivy-clad buildings, and a palpable sense of history, Trastevere transforms into a magical labyrinth perfect for a nocturnal culinary adventure. For the discerning foodie, and especially those with a penchant for crispy, cheesy delights and a good craft brew, Trastevere after dark is an absolute must.
Evening Ambiance: Sights to See Before You Feast
Before diving into the culinary delights take some time to soak in Trastevere's enchanting atmosphere. As dusk settles, the neighborhood's ancient buildings are beautiful illuminated, creating a postcard-perfect scene.
- Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere: This bustling piazza is the heart of the neighborhood and perfect starting point. The magnificent Basilica di Santa Maria in Travestevere, one of Rome's oldest churches, glows beautifully at night. Take a moment to sit by the fountain and watch the street performers and vibrant crowds.
- Ponte Sisto: Walking across this pedestrian bridge offers stunning views to the Tiber and the illuminated city beyond. It's an ideal spot for a romantic photo opportunity as the city lights twinkle on the water.
- Wander the Vicoli: Simply getting lost in the narrow, winding alleys (known as vicoli) is an experience in itself. Each corner reveals charming courtyards, hidden frescoes, and vibrant street art.
The Reign of the Supplì: Where to Find Rome’s Fried Delights
No visit to Trastevere is complete without indulging in a suppli, Rome's answer to the arancini. These fried rice balls, typically filled with tomato sauce, rice, and melting core of mozzarella, are a quintessential Roman street food. The name suppli al telefono (suppli " on the phone") comes from the way the melted mozzarella stretches like a telephone cord when you break one open. They are the perfect snack to fuel your explorations.
For some of the best suppli in Travestevere, make a beeline for:
- Suppli Roma: (Via di San Francesco a Ripa, 137) A legendary spot often hailed as having some of the best suppli in the city. Their classic al telefono is a must-try
- Pizzeria Ai Marmi: (Viale di Trastevere, 53) While famous for its thin-crust Roman pizzas, their suppli are equally divine - crispy on the outside, gooey on the inside.
Craft Beer: A Modern Twist in an Ancient Setting
While Trastevere is steeped in tradition, it has also embraced a vibrant craft beer scene, offering a refreshing contrast to the ancient surroundings. After your suppli fix, or even as a preamble, seek out one of the neighborhood's excellent craft beer bars. These spots blend seamlessly into the historic fabric, providing cozy and inviting atmosphere where you can sample innovative brews across Italy and beyond.
Top craft beers spots to check out include:
- Ma che siete venuti a fa: (Via Benedetta, 25) Often considered a pioneer in Rome's craft beer scene, this cozy pub offers an extensive and frequently rotating selection of Italian and international beers on tap. A true mecca for beers lovers.
- Bir & Fud: (Via Benedetta, 23) right next door to "Ma che siete venuti a fa" this spot combines fantastic craft beer with excellent Roman-style pizza and other fried delights. It's perfect for a full dinner experience with your brew.
- Bar San Calisto: (Piazza di S. Calisto, 3) While not strictly a craft beer bar, this iconic, old-school Roman bar offers cheap drinks and an unparalleled local atmosphere. It's a great spot to people-watch and enjoy a classic Italian evening, even if it's just a simple birra alla spina.
Beyond the Bites: Full Dining Experiences
For a more substantial meal, Trastevere offers a plethora of traditional Roman trattorias.
- Da Enzo al 29: ( Via del Vascellari, 29) A small, authentic trattoria famous for its classic Roman dishes like cacio e pepe, amatriciana, and carbonara. Expect a wait, but it's well worth it for the truly traditional experience.
- Trattoria da Augusto: (Piazza de' Renzi, 15) Another no-frills, cash-only institution offering honest, home-style Roman cooking at very reasonable prices. The menu changes daily based on fresh ingredients.
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